A small bathtub can be the difference between “we’ll have to rip the whole bathroom out” and “yes, a bath will fit”. In many UK homes the bathroom spaces are compact (often around 2.3m x 2.7m), and you still need to fit a bath alongside a WC and basin without blocking the door or making everything feel squeezed. Get the sizing wrong and you can end up moving pipework, shifting walls, or re-tiling far more than planned.
This guide starts with a clear size chart, then explains measuring allowances, litres and capacity, type-by-type dimensions, room-fit rules, UK cost ranges, standards and compatibility checks, and finishes with FAQs.
Understanding Bathroom Size
A bathroom’s size describes the overall floor space, usually measured in square metres (m²) or square feet (ft²), and includes essential fittings such as the toilet, sink, bath, or shower. This figure is key for planning the layout, installing plumbing, ensuring ease of movement, and fitting in storage.
In the UK, bathrooms are often grouped by size:
-
Small: 2–4 m²
-
Medium: 4–7 m²
-
Large: 8 m² and above
Knowing which category your bathroom falls into helps when deciding what can comfortably fit inside—whether it’s a separate shower, a double sink, or a freestanding bath.
Quick picks: best small bathtub types
Choosing the right type of bath is essential to make your bathroom feel more spacious and functional, even when space is limited. The following quick picks help you match your bathroom needs with the most suitable design, whether you want to maximise floor space, combine shower and bath, or create a visually appealing feature.
Straight bath
A timeless choice, straight baths fit most standard UK bathroom layouts with minimal fuss. They work well against a single wall, are easy to install, and suit both classic and contemporary interiors. Ideal if you want a straightforward option without compromising bathing comfort.
Shower-bath
Perfect for narrow or small bathrooms, shower-baths combine bathing and showering in one unit. They save space while offering flexibility and enhanced function, making them a popular choice in UK terraced homes or en-suites. When choosing, check the screen sealing length and safe standing area to avoid splashes.
Corner bath
Corner baths make efficient use of floor space and can become a striking feature in a compact bathroom. While they save layout space, note that their capacity is often higher than straight baths, so water use may increase. They are ideal if you want a visually interesting option that maximises floor area.
Compact freestanding / back-to-wall bath
These designs suit irregular layouts or very tight spaces where traditional baths won’t fit. Freestanding versions offer a more luxurious and stylish feel, while back-to-wall compact baths provide practical installation benefits. Check rim width and tap-hole options carefully, as smaller baths can limit the type of taps you can fit.
Small bathtub size chart
When UK people search for small bath dimensions or small bathtub sizes, they usually want a straight answer: what sizes exist, how much water they hold, and how they compare to the average bath length in the UK. The tricky bit is that “small” can mean “shorter”, “narrower”, “shallower”, or simply “takes up less usable floor space because of the shape”.
A good starting point is to think in millimetres (mm), because that’s how most UK bathroom drawings, installers, and product spec sheets are laid out.
Most common “small bath” sizes in the UK (1400–1500 x 700–750mm)
In UK terms, the most common small bathtub sits in the 1400–1500mm length range, typically 700–750mm wide (roughly 55–59 inches long and 27–29 inches wide). These sizes are popular because they still work with many standard bathroom layouts and don’t force you into unusual tap or waste positions.
If you’re trying to fit a bathtub for a small bathroom without turning it into a full redesign, this is often the “safe” zone: small enough to free up floor space, but not so tiny that it becomes a sit-only tub for most adults.
Compact range (1000–1400 x 650–700mm): where it works and typical trade-offs
You can go shorter than 1400mm. A 1000–1400mm bath exists for very tight rooms, downstairs cloakroom conversions, or awkward en-suites where a shower tray would be the easy choice but you really want a bath.
The key point is comfort. Once you drop into the 1200mm area, a common question is: is a 1200mm bath too small? It depends on who will use it. For bathing small children it can be brilliant. For most adults it becomes a bend-your-knees bath, and that’s fine if you know it up front. It can also affect resale appeal in a family home, because buyers often expect at least one “proper” bath.
Width matters too. A compact bath may be 650mm wide, which can feel noticeably tighter at the shoulders. If you’re used to a regular bath, this is where “small” starts to feel small.
Capacity benchmarks: 1400x700 ≈ 180-230L; 1500x700 ≈ 200-250L
Bath capacity is usually quoted as brimful litres, meaning filled right up to the rim. In real use, you never fill it that high.
Still, benchmarks help when you’re comparing tubs:
-
1400 x 700mm baths are commonly around 180-230 litres brimful.
-
1500 x 700mm baths are commonly around 200-250 litres brimful.
If you’re watching water use (or you’ve got a smaller hot water cylinder), these figures are a useful sense check. Just remember: depth, internal shape, and where the overflow sits can change the “real” bathing amount of warm water quite a lot.
Quick comparison table (small bath vs standard UK 1700x700)
People also ask what is the standard size of bathtub and what is the length of a standard bathtub in the UK. A widely used “standard” reference point is 1700 x 700mm, which is why so many UK bathrooms are designed around it.
| Bath label (UK) | Typical external size (L x W) | Typical brimful capacity (guide) | What it’s like in daily use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compact small bath | 1200 x 700mm | ~100–150L | Usually knees-bent for adults; great for kids, tight rooms |
| Common small bath | 1400 x 700mm | ~180–230L | A practical compromise for small bathrooms |
| Common small bath (longer) | 1500 x 700mm | ~200–250L | Often the sweet spot for comfort vs space |
| Standard UK bath | 1700 x 700mm | ~250–300L | Most adults can recline more naturally |
Capacities vary by shape and depth, so treat these as comparison numbers rather than guarantees.
How to measure for a small bath (so it actually fits)
A bath can look as if it fits on paper, then fail in the real room because of tiles, pipe boxing, or a door that swings right into the side of the tub. Measuring well is how you avoid costly rework.
What to measure: external length/width/height vs internal base length/depth
Baths have two sets of dimensions that matter:
External dimensions are the overall length, width, and height. These are what decide whether the bath physically sits between walls, next to a vanity unit, or under a window.
Internal dimensions are what decide comfort. In particular, look for the internal base length (the flatter part you actually sit or lie on) and the internal depth to the waterline.
If you’ve ever tried a bath that “should” be long enough but feels short, this is usually why. The ends can be heavily sloped, which steals usable length even when the overall dimension looks generous.
If you’re sketching your layout, it helps to draw a simple top-down rectangle for the bath’s external size, then mark the internal base as a shorter rectangle inside it. You don’t need fancy software; a pencil sketch with measurements is often clearer than guessing.
Allowances you must add: 50–100mm for tiling, pipework, and install tolerance
In UK homes, walls are rarely perfect. You may also be tiling over older plaster, adding backer boards, or building a new stud wall to straighten things up. Pipework and wastes need space too.
As a rule of thumb, plan to add 50–100mm of allowance across the install zone for:
-
wall finishes (tiles, adhesive, boards),
-
pipework routes and traps,
-
and a bit of “wiggle room” so the bath can be levelled and sealed properly.
This is one reason a 1500mm bath can be an easier install than you expect: it gives you breathing space to keep the bath square and the seal neat without forcing everything hard against wonky walls.
Space planning essentials: door swing, basin projection, and circulation strip
A bath isn’t the only thing that needs space. In small bathrooms, the parts that trip people up are often the ones that move.
Start with the door. If it opens inward, check the arc of the door swing and where the handle lands. In many compact UK bathrooms, simply changing the door to open outward (or using a sliding door) can make a small bath layout far more workable.
Next, consider the toilet and sink placement. A compact wall-hung basin can free floor space, while a deeper vanity unit can steal it. Measure the basin projection (how far it sticks out from the wall) and consider the standing space you need in front of it.
Finally, leave a sensible circulation strip. You don’t need a ballroom, but you do want to be able to step in, turn, and sit down without squeezing sideways between sharp corners.
Common measuring mistakes in UK homes (boxing-in, uneven walls, skirting, window reveals)
UK houses have their own little surprises, especially Victorian terraces and 1930s semis.
Boxing-in is a big one. That neat-looking box along the wall may be hiding a soil pipe or water feeds, and it can steal 100mm or more of usable width. If you measure to the “front” of the box without realising it continues behind the bath area, you can end up short.
Uneven walls are another classic. A room might be 700mm wide at one end and 680mm at the other. If you’re trying to fit a 700mm wide tub into a tapering gap, you may have a bad day on install day.
Skirting boards and window reveals also matter. If a bath needs to run right into a corner, the skirting often has to be removed so the rim can sit tight to the wall line. And if the bath sits under a window, check the sill height and the reveal depth so the bath edge doesn’t clash with trims.
Depth, shape and comfort specs (what “small” feels like)
A small bath isn’t only about length. Depth, internal shape, and where the waterline sits can change the experience more than you’d expect.
Typical depth range for small baths: 350–420mm (entry/exit vs soak depth)
A typical small bath depth is often around 350–420mm (measured internally to the overflow/waterline area, depending on the spec sheet).
A shallower bath can be easier to step into, which matters if you have kids, you’re thinking about future mobility, or you just don’t like climbing over a high edge. On the other hand, depth is what gives you that “soak” feeling, allowing you to relax without feeling cramped. If your shoulders always feel cold, it’s usually because the bath is shallow or the backrest angle sits you higher.
Corner tubs and some compact freestanding styles can be deeper, but depth comes with trade-offs: more water, more weight, and sometimes a higher step-in.
Internal length vs overall length: why a 1500mm bath can feel “short”
This surprises a lot of people. You choose a 1500mm bath because it sounds reasonable, then you sit in it and think, “Why do my knees feel so close?”
Two baths with the same overall length can have very different internal base lengths. A design with thick rims or strongly sloped ends reduces the flat area where your body rests. If you’re comparing options, look for internal diagrams or ask for internal base length. If you can’t find it, a good clue is the product’s internal drawing showing the angle of the backrests.
If you’re tall, internal shape can matter more than the headline “length”.
Waterline vs brimful capacity: what litres really mean in use
Litres are helpful, but they can mislead if you don’t know what you’re looking at.
Brimful capacity is a lab-style number. It’s the maximum volume the bath holds when filled to the rim. Real bathing capacity is closer to the volume up to the overflow, minus what your body displaces, and minus what you choose because you don’t want water sloshing onto the floor.
So if you see a small bathtub listed at 160 litres brimful, your real “comfortable fill” might be closer to the 110–140 litre range depending on the bath’s overflow height and your preferred depth.
This matters for hot water planning. If your cylinder struggles to deliver a deep fill in a standard tub, a small bath can actually be a practical upgrade, not just a space-saving one.
Ergonomics by user height (UK adult fit guidance using internal base length)
Here’s a simple way to think about fit without overcomplicating it.
Most adults are comfortable when the internal base length supports them from lower back to near the heels, with knees only slightly bent. If you’re much taller, you can still be comfortable, but you’ll sit more upright or bend your knees more.
As a rough guide, if you’re choosing between a 1400mm and 1500mm bath and you’re unsure, the 1500mm option often feels noticeably better for average-height UK adults because you gain internal length as well as more flexibility in posture. That’s why people often ask is a 1600mm bath too small? For many adults, 1600mm still feels fine, especially compared with 1400mm, but it depends on the internal shape and how you like to bathe.
Small bathtub types and their typical UK dimensions
“Best” depends on what you mean by best. Do you want the easiest fitting? The best shower combo? The most soak depth for the footprint? In UK bathrooms, the answer often comes down to layout and plumbing more than style.
Straight short baths (best-known sizes: 1400x700; 1500x700)
Straight baths are the most common choice for a small bath UK installation because they sit neatly against one, two, or three walls, and they work with typical UK plumbing runs.
The familiar sizes are 1400 x 700mm and 1500 x 700mm, with some models offering a little extra width. If you’re asking, are mini bathtubs good for small spaces? Straight short baths are the “yes, usually” answer because they are predictable: easy to measure, easy to panel, and easier to pair with a shower screen if you want a shower over the bath.
If your priority is fitting without drama, a straight small bath is normally the simplest option.
Corner baths for small spaces (1200–1500mm sides; deeper 400–500mm; 200–260L)
Corner baths save space differently. Instead of being short, they change the shape so you can tuck the bath into a corner and free up the long wall for a basin or storage.
Typical corner bath footprints are roughly 1200–1500mm per side (depending on whether it’s a square, round, offset, or more triangular shape). They are often deeper, sometimes 400–500mm, and because of their shape they can hold a surprising amount of water. It’s not unusual to see corner tubs around 200–260 litres brimful.
That capacity can be a plus if you love a deep soak, but it can also mean more weight on the floor and more demand on your hot water. Comfort can be different too. Some corner tubs suit sitting and lounging rather than lying flat. If you imagine a “mini spa” feel with water jets, a corner tub can suit the vibe, but only if your room shape genuinely supports it.
Shower-baths in “small” rooms: when 1500–1600mm is the realistic minimum
A lot of UK households want one bath that also works as the main shower. That’s where shower-baths come in.
In a very small room, it’s tempting to push the length down to 1400mm, but in practice many people find 1500–1600mm is the realistic minimum if you want comfortable standing room for showering. This is especially true if you plan to add a glass screen, because you need enough straight edge to keep splashes contained and to stand without feeling boxed in.
If your bathroom is used by adults every day, and the bath will double as the shower, going slightly longer can make the room feel calmer and safer.
Back-to-wall / compact freestanding: size envelope and clearance needs
Compact freestanding and back-to-wall baths are often chosen for style, but they can still work in small bathrooms if you plan the envelope properly.
The main thing to remember is clearance. Even back-to-wall models need access for fitting and sealing, and true freestanding tubs may need space around them for cleaning and for pipe connections. In a tight UK bathroom, a freestanding bath pushed hard against two walls can look good, but it needs careful measuring so the rim lines up, the waste can be reached, and the final seal is reliable.
Also check weight. Freestanding designs can be heavier, and a filled bath is always much heavier than people expect once you add a person and the amount of water.
Will it fit? UK bathroom size rules of thumb (mm)
Most people aren’t starting with a blank plan. They’re working around a soil stack, a window, and a door that is exactly where it is. So the real question becomes: can you fit a bathtub and still have a usable bathroom?
Minimum room size guidance for keeping a bath + WC + basin workable
In a compact UK room, you’re aiming for a layout that lets you do three basic things without bumping into everything: open the door, stand at the basin, and get in and out of the bath safely.
As a general feel (not a legal minimum), a bathroom around 2300mm long can often take a 1500–1700mm bath along one wall, with a WC and basin arranged at the other end or along the opposite wall, depending on the width. If your room is shorter, a 1400mm bath can be what makes the plan workable.
If you’re dealing with a very narrow room, the standard bath width UK reference point of 700mm matters because it sets how much floor width you have left for walking space and fixtures. A 750mm wide bath can be lovely, but in a tight room it can pinch the aisle.
Common UK layouts and the bath size that typically slots in (terrace, flat en-suite, box room)
In many terraces, the main bathroom is long and narrow, with the bath along one side and the basin/WC lined up. If the door opens inward near the bath end, a 1700mm tub can sometimes fight the door swing, which is why a 1500mm bath is a common compromise.
In flat en-suites, the room might be more square but smaller overall. That’s where a 1200–1400mm bath can work, but only if you accept the comfort trade-off. If you’re hoping to bathe children in the en-suite, a short straight bath can be a neat solution.
Box-room bathrooms (often created from a smaller bedroom) can be awkward because the window and radiator positions weren’t designed for bathroom fixtures. Here, moving the door position or choosing a different swing can be what makes it possible to fit a bathtub at all.
This leads to the question many homeowners ask: how to get a bathtub in a small space? The answer is usually a combination of choosing a short straight bath, keeping to standard 700mm width where you can, and planning the door and basin so you’re not wasting the best wall.
Plumbing constraints: waste position, soil stack proximity, and keeping standard UK alignments
Plumbing can quietly dictate bath choice.
The bath waste position (where the plug hole and trap sit) needs to connect into your existing waste run with the right fall. If you swap ends or move the bath, you might force a longer waste run, which can be tricky in a solid floor or where joists run the “wrong” way.
Soil stack proximity matters mainly for the WC, but it can affect the whole layout. If you move the WC far from the stack, you may need bigger boxing or changes that steal space you thought you had saved with a smaller tub.
If your aim is to avoid major changes, choosing a bath that works with existing waste and tap positions can save a lot of time and money.
Structural loading basics: filled bath weight, floor type (timber joists vs solid)
A bath is heavy when filled. One litre of water weighs about one kilogram, so even a modest fill can add well over 100kg before you count the bath itself and the person using it.
In homes with suspended timber floors, weight is usually manageable when the bath is installed correctly and loads are spread and supported. The main risk comes from poor installation, missing supports, or altered joists from previous work.
If you’re switching from a standard bath to a smaller one, weight usually goes down. If you’re switching to a deeper or corner tub with a higher capacity, weight may go up. It’s sensible to have an installer check the floor if you’re unsure, especially in older properties.
Small bath cost ranges in the UK (bath + typical install)
Costs vary by region, access, and how much you’re changing. But you can still plan a realistic range so you’re not surprised later.
Bath purchase price bands by size/type (entry–mid–premium)
Prices change over time and vary by retailer, but the pattern is fairly consistent: straight acrylic baths tend to be cheaper, while heavier materials and more complex shapes cost more.
| Type (small/compact) | Typical UK bath-only price range (guide) | What usually drives the price |
| Straight small bath (acrylic) | £150–£500 | Thickness, reinforcement, finish quality |
| Shower-bath (compact) | £250–£700 | Screen compatibility, shape, reinforcement |
| Corner bath | £350–£900 | Panels, shape complexity, higher capacity |
| Compact freestanding / back-to-wall | £600–£2,000+ | Material, design, weight, fitting kit needs |
If you’re trying to keep costs controlled, straight baths are normally the easiest place to do it.
Typical installation cost components: removal/disposal, plumbing changes, making good/tiling
Installation is where budgets can jump, especially in small bathrooms where access is tight and every surface is tiled.
| Install element | What it includes | Typical impact on cost |
| Removal & disposal | Taking out old bath, breaking out panels, waste disposal | Lower if access is easy, higher if narrow stairs/parking limits |
| Plumbing connection | New waste/trap, tap connections, checking for leaks | Higher if waste position changes |
| Levelling & support | Feet adjustment, bedding/support, checking floor | Higher if floor needs correction |
| Making good & sealing | New bath panel, silicone sealing, minor repairs | Increases if walls are uneven |
| Tiling work | Re-tiling edges, full splash areas if disturbed | Often the biggest swing factor |
A like-for-like swap (same length, similar waste position) is usually far cheaper than a change that forces new pipe runs and fresh tiling.
Hidden costs that change totals: new screen/taps/waste, boxing-in, floor levelling
This is where small bathrooms can catch you out. You might choose a small bath to save space, then find you need extra parts to make the whole setup work neatly.
A common example is the shower screen. If you move from a straight bath to a shower-bath shape, you may need a different screen. If you keep a straight bath but change the rim height, you might need a different waste or trap depth.
Boxing-in can also reappear. Moving a bath even a short distance can reveal pipes that were previously hidden, or it can force new boxing that steals the space you thought you’d gained.
Floor levelling is another quiet cost. In older houses, floors can slope. A bath must be level for the waterline and for drainage, so levelling work can become necessary even when everything else seems simple.
VAT notes for UK projects (standard vs potential adaptations context)
Most bathroom work is charged at the standard VAT rate. There are, however, situations where VAT relief may apply, such as certain adaptations for disabled people (and some related works and goods).
If you think this might apply to your household, it’s worth checking the current government guidance and speaking to your installer before you buy, because paperwork and eligibility matter.
Materials and spec performance for bathtub options
Material choice affects weight, how warm the bath feels, noise when filling, and how well it stands up to everyday cleaning.
Acrylic vs steel vs cast iron: weight, heat retention, noise, and durability
| Material | Typical feel in use | Main practical upsides | Main practical downsides |
| Acrylic | Warm to touch; quieter than steel; elegant finish | Lighter (often easier upstairs), usually cheaper, many shapes | Can scratch; quality varies by thickness and reinforcement |
| Steel (enamelled) | Cool at first; can be noisier when filling | Hard surface, good scratch resistance | Can feel colder; can chip if hit hard |
| Cast iron (enamelled) | Solid and steady; holds heat well | Excellent heat retention; very durable | Very heavy; can be harder to install in small upstairs rooms |
In small bathrooms, weight and manoeuvrability often matter as much as luxury. Carrying a heavy tub through tight hallways and up narrow stairs is a real-world constraint in many UK homes.
Hard water considerations (limescale visibility and cleaning tolerance by finish)
Hard water is common in large parts of the UK. If you live in a hard water area, limescale can build up on rims, around taps, and along the waterline.
Glossy surfaces can show white marks more clearly, especially where water dries in thin sheets. This doesn’t mean you should avoid a finish you like; it just means you may want a consistent cleaning routine and a gentle cleaner that won’t damage the surface.
If you’re choosing between materials, think about how you’ll clean it. Some surfaces cope better with frequent wiping, while others mark more easily if you use abrasive pads.
Slip resistance and surface care: coatings, mats, and what to check on product spec sheets
Slips in the bath are no joke, especially in households with children or older relatives.
Many baths can be supplied with an anti-slip area or coating, and you can also use a mat. The important part is to check what the manufacturer says about cleaning products, because some coatings need gentler care to keep their grip.
Also look at the shape of the base. A bath with a very curved base might feel less stable to stand in (if it’s used as a shower), even if the bath isn’t “small” by dimension.
Expected lifespan ranges by material and install quality
A bath’s lifespan is as much about installation as material.
A well-installed acrylic bath can last many years, but a poorly supported one can flex, which can lead to seal failures and movement. Steel and cast iron can last a very long time, but chips and poor sealing around edges can still cause problems.
If you want the bath to stay looking good, the key is stable support, good sealing, and sensible cleaning rather than harsh abrasives.
UK standards and compatibility checks (before ordering)
Before you order, it helps to run through a few compatibility checks. They’re not exciting, but they can prevent expensive returns or last-minute compromises.
Water fittings: WRAS expectations and compatibility with UK taps/wastes
In the UK, many people look for water fittings that meet WRAS expectations. WRAS approval (where applicable) is a common marker that a product is suitable for use with UK water supply systems.
For your bath, the practical takeaway is simple: make sure your taps, wastes, and any associated fittings are designed for UK plumbing connections and pressures, and that the bath you choose is compatible with the tap style you want (deck-mounted, wall-mounted, and so on).
Building Regulations touchpoints: Part G (sanitation/hot water safety) and water efficiency context
Most homeowners won’t read Building Regulations cover to cover, but it’s useful to know the touchpoints.
Part G covers sanitation and hot water safety. In a bathroom refit, this links to sensible hot water temperatures, safe systems, and proper installation. Water efficiency requirements can also affect choices in a wider renovation, even if your bath itself is not “rated” in the same way as some other fixtures.
If you’re using a professional installer, they should already work with these expectations in mind. If you’re planning work yourself, it’s worth reading the official guidance so you understand what “good practice” looks like.
Accessibility considerations: Part M and practical bath-entry dimensions (lip height, depth)
Even if you’re not doing an accessibility-led renovation, it’s smart to think ahead. A small bath that is easy to step into can be a quiet win.
Part M relates to access to and use of buildings. In everyday terms, consider the bath’s lip height, internal depth, and whether there’s space beside the tub to help someone in and out safely. Sometimes a slightly shallower bath, or a different shape, is a better long-term choice than squeezing in the deepest tub possible.
Tap ledge & drilling: why small baths can restrict tap choice
Small baths often come with limited rim space, which can affect the type of taps you can fit. One key consideration is whether you want wall-mounted or deck-mounted taps: wall-mounted taps keep the rim clear but require compatible plumbing, while deck-mounted taps need enough width to sit securely on the bath edge.
Many compact baths are sold with undrilled rims, which can make retrofitting deck-mounted taps tricky, especially if the rim is narrow. Before purchasing, always check the rim width and confirm whether the bath manufacturer allows drilling or has pre-drilled options.
Another factor is the tap position relative to the waste end. Some small baths only accommodate taps at one end, limiting your choices and affecting shower or mixer placement.
Practical tip: measure your available space carefully and cross-reference the manufacturer’s diagram before ordering. This can save costly mistakes and ensure your tap fits safely and functionally.
Documentation to keep: technical drawings, installation instructions, and guarantee terms
Keep the technical drawing, installation instructions, and guarantee details. In a small bathroom, tiny details matter: which end the waste is on, what the finished height is with the feet, and what clearances are needed for panels and screens.
If anything goes wrong later (a leak, a crack, a seal failure), having the paperwork makes diagnosis and warranty conversations much simpler.
Final thoughts
Choosing the right small bathtub for your UK bathroom requires careful planning, as even minor differences in layout can affect how the bath fits and how the room appears. The bath’s shape, depth, and length play a role in determining how comfortably you can use it, and moving from a 1400mm to a 1500mm bath can significantly improve comfort without reducing the amount of space elsewhere. Generally, compact freestanding, corner, or straight baths offer practical options that suit most layouts, but it’s worth taking time to discover the combination that works best for your family and your bathroom. With the right choice, a small bath can feel surprisingly spacious and functional while still looking stylish.
FAQs
1. What is the smallest bathtub size available in the UK?
You can find small bathtubs as short as around 1000mm, though the more common small bathtub sizes tend to be 1400–1500mm long. These compact tubs are ideal for very tight en-suites, cloakrooms, or homes where children are the main users. Most adults will need to sit with bent knees in these small bath dimensions, so while they save space, they won’t give the full-length, stretch-out comfort of a standard bath.
2. Is a 1400mm bath big enough for an adult?
For many adults, a 1400mm small bath UK model can work well. It’s usually comfortable enough for a sit-and-soak or a quick wash. It might not feel like a long, reclining bath, especially if the internal base is short, but in smaller bathrooms, it’s a practical compromise. Some designs even include contoured interiors to make the space feel a little roomier than the measurements suggest.
3. How many litres does a small bath hold in the UK?
Most small bathtubs hold between 120–160 litres when filled to the brim, depending on size and depth. As a rough guide, a 1400 x 700mm small bath UK model often holds around 140 litres, while a 1500 x 700mm bath can reach 160 litres. Always check the manufacturer’s specifications, as deeper bases can increase capacity beyond these averages.
4. Can you get a bath smaller than 1400mm for an en-suite?
Yes, there are small bath dimensions in the 1200–1400mm range suitable for compact en-suites. The trade-off is comfort for adults, as these shorter tubs usually require a more upright seating position. They’re perfect for children, occasional use, or very tight spaces. Some modern designs even taper slightly at one end to offer extra legroom without expanding the footprint.
5. What’s the standard UK bath size compared with a small bath?
The average bath length UK is usually around 1700mm, with a standard bath width UK of 700mm. A small bath UK typically measures 1400–1500mm in length but keeps the width the same. This saves 200–300mm of floor space while still allowing standard plumbing fittings. It’s a smart solution to maximise space without compromising too much on comfort.
References